The Riviera is a name that conjures sparkling seas and endless sunshine: palm trees, outdoor cafes and tanning bodies on the sand. But behind the stereotype of wealth and glamour is one of Europe's most beautiful and accessible tourist locations. Take it from one who knows: while renovating her apartment in the medieval ramparts of Ventimiglia, New Zealander Carolyn McKenzie was stunned by the variety of inspiring places surrounding her. Now an entrenched local, McKenzie shares her knowledge so that all visitors can make the most of this unique region.